Like Gare du Nord, the Eiffel Tower hosts countless “Bosnian refugees”. They fan across la Tour’s waiting area, eager to tap the sympathy of tourists waiting for a trip to the top. Instead of attempting to penetrate the jaded locals, the girls can attain a higher hit rate with the Iowans, Japanese and yes even New orkers who flock to this international landmark.
Already suspicious of the refugees because of the congregation I found in front of Gare du Nord, I was eager to find more of these supposed travelers and get some pictures.
I hunted for a bathroom around la Tour and heard over my shoulder, “Do you speak English?” Her timing was awful; nature would not wait. I assumed my Bosnian would be there when I finished, so I continued to the bathroom.
I came back, and she was there. I couldn’t shake the belief that they were nto random homeless girls with a shared identity. Thus, I figured that they would be camera-shy. I held my flimsy camera waist high and used my body to judge the angle (as best I could – and thanks, John P., for the technique).
My refugee is approaching a group that probably is local – and not interested. I returned to the ticket line to find my wife.
I turned my head as I waited and saw the jackpot, a crowd of about 10 Bosnian girls getting ready to leave.
The line advanced, and I felt my opportunity evaporate as the guard chastised me for trying to take “drinks” (by which he meant my unopened, sealed absinthe bottles) to the top. He turned me away, and I was pissed because I had waited in line for nothing and missed a group shot of the Bosnians socializing.
I pushed out of the queue and caught a few awful shots of the union, apparently on a break. Their presence at a snack kiosk indicated niether poverty nor starvation (or, so it seemed).
I wound around the food stand and saw one girl arguing with the vendor (in French) and the other sitting on a split-rail fence. Neither approached, so I lingered. They were on a break, so why would they bother coming to me for change? I started to believe that everyone in France belonge dto a union.
Finally, I looked confused enough to be approached. “Do you speak English?” she asked with a heavier accent.
“Oui,” I replied, and she began to unfold her index card. Before she could display it properly, I continued, “Je vous donnerai un euro si je peu le photographe.” My French was good enough rather than good, but she got the idea. If she let me have a picture of the index card, she’d get a euro. I pulled the coin from my pocket as an offer of proof.
She smiled and nodded.
She doesn’t speak the language? Not only did she speak euro, she understood French. I surrendered the coin and asked, “Un autre?” She agreed, until she saw the lens pointed at herface.
“Non, non,” she objected and pulled the index card higher.
Her firend, who had been arguing with the snack vendor, finally realized what was going on. “Donnez?” she asked, “Give me?” My refugee smiled and flashed the euro; her friend evidently noted the amount. Her face lit up, her expression buoyant. The girl bounced to her feet and commanded, “Donnez! Donnez!”
I waved my camera and replied, “Je suis fini [I'm finished].” Her disappointment was unmistakable, though her card probably lamented her inability to speak French, too.